The engine is the 7.0 liter, big block 428. I bought it from a shop that was restoring it, but went out of business. Reverse the steps to re-assemble, as they say.This is a 1967 Ford Thunderbird.
Replace the carpeting & also if needed inspect, clean, and paint the floor pan! If you have an automatic trans and still have ambition at this point remove and modify the neutral start switch to allow it to start in park. While under the dash consider adding an electric wiper conversion, mechanical brake switch and relocate the power source for the back up lights from the light switch to the ACC terminal of the ignition switch. Adding a drop of oil to the motor shaft won't hurt either. Take the side cover off the gearboxes and add fresh grease at this time as well. Thoroughly clean, paint and grease the track, and clean and grease the long screws that move the frame. Once that far, you can then remove the 4 nuts under the car, disconnect the power motors and lift out the track. Then raise the seat all the way up to unbolt it from the power track. Its much lighter if the seat back can be removed from the bottom - but that may be difficult to do without tearing the "booties" or causing other damage, so use caution when spreading the sides out over the pins. However it never went that smoothly for me!įirst important step is to remove the top and store safely. VERY SIMPLISTICALY all it amounts to is removing the 4 nuts on the underside of the car, unhooking the wires from the relays, and with a helper lift out the entire assembly. I think it worth the hassle, but try to do multiple fixes/upgrades and allow expect the car to be outta service more than one day. I', 6' 3", and while I'm thin and can get my hand in tight places, it is very difficult to get the angles needed to turn a wrench, pliers, nut driver, socket, etc., without the seat outta the way. If you are gonna do it, try to do more than one thing under the dash. So, prolly more than I needed to outline, but it is a procedure that gets easier the more you do it, and things are cleaned up, and fasteners have been exersized. It may be easier but and extra step to remove the seat back from the seat bench. Removing the seat as an assembly is possible with two people, the doors open, the roof off/top down. The up/down mechanism is much easier and accessible flipping the seat back forward and holding the curtain outta the way. You may know all this, but it IS DEFINITELY tight quarters under that seat, allowing only small motions at a time. You'll need a hookpick, needle nose pliers, or similar to remove the cotter pin (or similar) from the hinge pin holding the threaded fore/aft rod from the floor bracket. you'll need a small pick or flat blade to separate the connectors.
67 thunderbird seat motor drivers#
Raise the seat up as much as possible so you can access the wire harness connection under the drivers side of the seat. Fasteners are toward the front and rears of the tracks. fix a wrench on the top so that it stops/wedges against something ridged while you use a ratchet-socket underneath.
That said, there are only four bolts holding the frame rails to the floor, and if there not seized/frozen, wrench access isnt too bad. If you're a big man, you likely have big arms and hands, which by nature of the tight confines means you're gonna need extra time and room to view, access and manipulate more stuff outta the way to get at the target item(s). depends on whether you got a 15 minute job under the dash (few things under there take only fifteen minutes, lol) or a few hours (more likely).
0 kommentar(er)
